How to grow roses

Growing roses offers the dual reward of vibrant blooms paired with lovely fragrances. But these plants are often intimidating to grow, especially for new gardeners. While there are a few finicky types, most modern roses are easy to learn to grow at home in your garden.

How to grow roses

Roses thrive with proper care and the right conditions. Sunlight is crucial for flower production. The plants need at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. Soil quality matters too. Roses grow best in well-draining soil rich in organic matter. Regular watering is important, especially during dry spells, but avoid over-watering to the point of muddy soil.

Pruning is essential for health and growth. Roses are usually cut back roughly in the late fall to minimize winter damage to the roots, with detailed pruning usually saved until early spring. Fertilizing roses with a balanced fertilizer encourages robust growth and blooms. Be vigilant about pests and diseases throughout the year, as prompt treatment can prevent serious damage.

The basics

Start by selecting a rose variety tailored to your garden’s conditions. Options at most local nurseries range from hybrid teas and floribundas to climbers and shrub roses. Modern shrub roses (think David Austin varieties or the Knock-Out series) are usually the easiest to grow. There are also some lovely easy groundcovers (like the Drift lineup).

Hybrid tea and floribunda roses typically require the highest level of garden maintenance. They are prone to various pests and diseases, necessitating regular monitoring, pruning, feeding, and preventive treatments to keep them healthy.

The best time to plant roses is early spring after the last frost or in the fall about six weeks before the first expected frost. This allows the rose bush to establish roots before extreme temperatures hit.

An optimal site for these beauties gets at least 6-8 hours of sunlight daily, augmented with good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases. Soil also plays a pivotal role in rose health. A well-draining soil enriched with organic matter, ideally with a pH between 6.5 and 7.0, serves roses best.

When planting, whether container-grown or bare-root, ensure the root system is comfortably accommodated. Usually, the graft union of bare-root roses is placed just above the soil in mild climates and an inch or two below the soil line in cooler climates.

Regular, deep watering is key, focusing on the soil rather than the leaves to keep them dry and disease-free. Early spring signals the time to feed roses with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer, followed by a mid-summer top-up.

Pruning not only shapes the plant but also promotes airflow and removes unhealthy wood. Vigilance against pests like aphids and rose borers and preventive measures will make the plants more likely to remain healthy.

Learning how to grow roses can be more difficult in colder climates. As winter approaches, shield the base of rose plants with soil or mulch. Roses in extremely cold areas benefit from additional protection like burlap.

Choosing rose varieties to grow

Choosing a rose variety (or varieties) to grow can be quite difficult as there are so many wonderful cultivars to choose from! Some of the best choices for gardeners are varieties with natural disease resistance, continual flower production, a beautiful fragrance, and excellent hardiness.

Here are some of the most popular rose varieties to grow:

• Peace rose (hybrid tea rose with fragrant, yellow blooms edged in pink, symbolizing peace after World War II)
• Queen Elizabeth rose (grandiflora rose with tall, upright growth and medium pink blooms)
• Eden rose (climbing rose with large, romantic, pink blooms reminiscent of old garden roses)
• Iceberg rose (floribunda with double white flowers)
• Knockout rose (shrub rose with single red blooms)
• Black Baccara rose (hybrid tea rose with deep, velvety, near-black red blooms)
• Lady of Shalott rose (shrub rose with striking salmon-pink to yellow double blooms and a warm tea fragrance)
• New Dawn rose (climbing rose with pale pink flowers and a pleasant fragrance)
• Bonica rose (shrub rose with double medium pink flowers)
• Julia Child rose (floribunda rose with buttery-yellow flowers and a strong, sweet licorice fragrance)
• Koko Loko rose (floribunda rose that starts as milky chocolate buds and opens to a soft lavender bloom)
• Tropicana rose (hybrid tea rose with fragrant, vibrant coral-orange blooms)
• Roald Dahl rose (shrub rose with rounded orange flowers)
• Ebb Tide rose (floribunda rose with deep smoky plum-purple blooms and a strong clove fragrance)
• Queen of Sweden rose (shrub rose with delicate pink, cup-shaped flowers with a light tea fragrance)
• Fragrant Cloud rose (hybrid tea rose with orange-red flowers)
• Olivia Rose Austin rose (shrub rose with classic soft pink cupped flowers)

Each of these roses has its own unique charm and can be a stunning addition to any garden. Learning how to grow roses is usually easiest if you choose a disease-resistant variety without too many maintenance requirements.

You may also wish to check out the most popular varieties by color, including pink roses (and specifically soft pink roses), red roses, and white roses. Different rose colors have different meanings in the language of flowers, which can also affect the choices for your garden.

Choosing and preparing a planting location

Choosing the right location and preparing the area effectively is essential for rose health and optimal flowering. Start by finding a sunny spot with good air circulation. Then check the soil and make any adjustments. Lastly, clear the area of existing plants and make any last-minute soil amendments.

1. Choose the best planting location

Roses need a minimum of 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily to flower well. A location with morning sunlight is particularly beneficial as it dries the dew on the leaves, reducing the risk of fungal diseases.

A site with good air movement helps reduce humidity around the rose foliage, which can also reduce the occurrence of diseases. However, avoid extremely windy spots that can damage the plants. Check the expected mature size of the cultivar you’re planting to determine its fully grown footprint.

Avoid areas where water stands after rain. Roses prefer well-draining soil. If you have heavy clay soil, build up a raised rose bed area with amended soil that drains out excess water easily.

2. Check current soil conditions

Roses prefer well-draining soil. Loamy soil — a balanced mix of sand, silt, and a bit of clay — is ideal for growing the healthiest plants. Heavy clay soils can be amended with organic matter and sand to improve drainage, while sandy soils can be enriched with compost to retain moisture and nutrients.

Roses thrive in slightly acidic soil. You can use a test kit if you are unsure about your soil’s pH. If the soil is too acidic or alkaline, you can adjust it using lime (to raise pH) or sulfur (to lower pH). While roses prefer slightly acidic soil, most newer varieties are quite tolerant to less-than-perfect pH conditions.

3. Prepare the planting area

Clear the area before starting any planting. Remove any weeds, grass, or other plants from the area where you’ll plant the roses. This reduces competition for nutrients and water.

To improve fertility and drainage, you may also wish to amend the soil with well-decomposed compost or organic matter (compost, peat moss, rotted manure). Feeding roses right at their roots is easiest when done before you start planting. If the native soil is clayey, consider adding some sand too. Healthy growth starts with healthy soil – especially if you’re growing multiple roses in the area. Planting in loose soil is also much easier than in compact ground.

Choosing the right location and properly preparing the soil gives your roses the best possible start, ensuring a garden filled with vibrant, healthy blooms.

How to plant roses

For each rose, dig a hole that’s about twice the diameter and a bit deeper than the rose’s root ball or the container it came in. Usually, that’s about 2 feet wide and 1 foot deep. This size ensures there’s enough room for roots to spread and grow.

Before planting, fill the hole with water and let it drain. This ensures the soil is adequately moistened before planting. This is also the time to add any starter fertilizer products to the root zone area.

Planting container-grown roses starts with watering the plant well in its container. Do this before transplanting to ensure the root ball is moist. For bare-root roses, trim any broken or excessively long roots. Soak the roots of dormant bare root plants in water for 8-12 hours to rehydrate them before planting.

Remove the rose from its container, gently teasing the roots if they circle the root ball. Place the rose in the center of the hole. To plant bare-root roses, you may need to put a bit of soil in the bottom of the hole to prop up the plant in the desired orientation.

Roses are planted more deeply in cold climates. In colder climates like Zones 5-6, the graft union (or stem middle of an own-root rose) can be placed 1-2 inches below the soil level. The graft union can be set above the soil line in warmer climates.

When planting roses, fill the hole halfway with the amended soil, pack it gently, and then water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots. Fill the rest of the planting hole with soil. In dry areas, form a small mound around the base to create a basin for water.

Water the rose bush deeply right after planting. Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch (like wood chips or straw) around the rose, keeping it a few inches away from the stem. This helps retain soil moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.

If your rose bush came with any long canes, prune them back by about one-third. This encourages stronger new growth.

Caring for a newly planted rose

Water the newly planted rose regularly, ensuring the soil remains consistently moist but not waterlogged. An automated drip irrigation system under organic mulch can work particularly well for roses. Avoid wetting the foliage during watering to prevent fungal diseases.

Fertilize your roses with high-quality rose food about a month after planting. Maintain soil health by occasionally amending with compost or organic matter, ensuring your roses have the nutrients they need. Top up organic mulch in spring or fall as the lower layers decompose to keep feeding the soil and promote plant growth.

Regularly inspect roses for signs of pests and diseases. Early detection and treatment can prevent bigger problems. Watch out for common rose pests such as aphids or rose borers. Treat any pests you observe promptly before they proliferate. Aphids can usually be sprayed off with water from the hose. If you notice dead or diseased canes, trim the whole branch off immediately (down to its base) and remove it from the area. Companion planting can also help minimize issues.

Provide adequate support using stakes or trellises for climbing roses or varieties with heavy blooms. It is generally easiest to install the trellis while the plant is still small and manageable.

Spring rose care

Once the new buds start to swell in early spring, it’s time to prune your rose bushes. If it’s a rose shrub, the whole thing will have been cut back in the late fall, which will make this more detailed pruning easier to manage.

Start by removing dead, damaged, or overcrowded branches. You can also trim out any long skinny canes and any branches that are crossing and rubbing on other branches.

For shrub roses, light pruning is generally sufficient. For hybrid tea roses, prune hard to leave only 3-6 strong canes on the plant. Try to cut just above an outward-facing eye or leaf bud to encourage new growth to spread outward rather than crowd inward.

After pruning, feed roses with a balanced rose fertilizer. This provides essential nutrients for the upcoming season. Reapply or refresh organic mulch around roses to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and maintain soil temperature. Ensure the mulch is not touching the base of the plant.

Check for aphids, black spot, and other common rose problems. Aphids can be a problem on fresh spring growth, but they can generally be sprayed off the plant with a garden hose with a spray nozzle. You might have to spray them off daily for a while to reduce the population. Black spot is best treated early with an organic rose fungicide.

Summer rose care

Set up a watering system (or make some kind of plan for regular watering). Roses require deep and consistent watering, especially in the heat of summer. Water at the base early in the day, avoiding wetting the foliage. Take note of yellowing leaves or wilted foliage and adjust your watering schedule accordingly.

Remove spent flowers to encourage continuous blooming and prevent energy wastage. Cut back to the first 5-leaflet leaf (or further back) to maintain a compact shape and keep the shrub from getting too leggy. Deadheading roses is particularly important for encouraging new flower buds on repeat blooming roses.

Rose bushes are “terminal bloomers,” meaning that the largest buds appear at the ends of the branches. You can increase the number of flowers that a shrub makes by increasing the number of terminal tips. To do this, cut back some young shoots to cause increased branching and more terminal tips. Summer is also a good time to remove any suckers coming up from below the union of any grafted plants.

Keep an eye out for rose pests like Japanese beetles throughout the growing season. Remove by hand or use appropriate treatments. You’ll also want to watch out for hungry deer!

Summer is also the time that fungal diseases like powdery mildew can appear on a rose plant. Modern shrub roses tend to have some natural resistance, but even resistant varieties can be affected by disease in the rose garden. Remove any badly infected foliage, take steps to increase light and air circulation, and stop any watering method that gets the leaves wet on a regular basis.

Fall rose care

Stop fertilizing your plants six weeks before the first expected frost to discourage new growth that could be damaged by winter cold. You want to be encouraging the plants to go dormant, not to grow a bunch of new branches. Early September is also a good time to stop deadheading. Let the plant set some rose hips as it prepares for winter dormancy.

Remove fallen rose leaves and other plant debris from around roses to prevent overwintering of diseases. Bring container-grown roses into a sheltered area.

Rose plants are generally pruned in late fall. Wait until several hard freezes have occurred and the plants have entered dormancy. At this point of the year, rose bushes are typically cut back to about 2 feet tall. Shortening the canes of shrub roses can help reduce winter damage to the plant from wind and snow loads. Climbers and tree roses should be otherwise supported.

In colder climates where the ground freezes hard, protect the base of grafted roses with a mound of soil, shredded leaves from healthy trees, or composted mulch to shield them from the winter chill and wide temperature fluctuations. This protective layer usually is applied around the time the ground freezes and is removed in the spring as the ground thaws.

In extremely cold areas (think Zones 3-4), consider using burlap screens or specialized rose cones to protect roses from harsh winter winds and cold. Tender rose varieties and grafted plants usually require much more protection than wild roses and even own-root roses.

Winter rose care

Leave your roses alone while they are dormant. Do not prune roses in winter, as this can stimulate new growth that’s vulnerable to cold damage. It’s easy to be tempted to remove protective covering during a February warm spell, but resist the urge, as cold weather inevitably seems to crop up later on.

Types of roses to grow

Roses can be categorized into several main types, each with its own unique characteristics and uses in the garden. Here’s an overview of the primary types of roses as discussed by gardeners. For formal rose classifications, visit the American Rose Society.

Hybrid tea roses

Hybrid tea roses are the most popular roses in everyday life. They are known for their long stems and classic rose-shaped flowers. Each stem usually bears a single, large bloom. Plant these varieties if you want top-notch cut flowers, and don’t mind doing the maintenance required of these varieties.

Popular hybrid tea rose cultivars to grow:

• ‘Peace’: Creamy yellow blooms edged in pink.
• ‘Mister Lincoln’: Deep velvety red with a strong fragrance.
• ‘Double Delight’: Creamy white with red edges and a strong spicy scent.

Shrub roses

Shrub roses are quickly becoming the most popular type of rose to grow in the garden. This category encompasses a wide range of hardy, easy-to-care-for landscape roses, including David Austin roses and English roses.

Shrub rose varieties are ideal for hedges or as standalone shrubs in gardens (see more rose garden ideas). Many are well-suited to bouquets and floral arrangements. They’re also much more approachable for new gardeners to grow, as most are disease-resistant healthy plants.

Popular shrub rose cultivars to grow:

• Any David Austin cultivar.
• Any Knock Out cultivar.
• ‘Bonica’: Delicate pink flowers with a light apple fragrance.

Floribunda roses

Floribunda roses are a cross between hybrid tea roses and polyantha roses. They produce clusters of blooms on each branch rather than a single flower. These varieties are great for hedges, border gardens, and other mass planting applications.

Popular floribunda rose cultivars to grow:

• ‘Iceberg’: Pure white or sometimes slightly pink blooms.
• ‘Julia Child’: Butter-yellow flowers with a licorice scent.
• ‘Angel Face’: Lavender blooms with a sweet, rosy scent.

Grandiflora roses

Grandiflora roses are a blend of hybrid tea and floribunda roses. They produce large flowers that grow either as singles or in clusters on tall stems. Grandiflora rose plants make a statement in the garden and can be used as a feature plant, as well as for cut flowers.

Popular grandiflora rose cultivars to grow:

• ‘Queen Elizabeth’: Tall-stemmed with medium pink blooms.
• ‘Gold Medal’: Golden-yellow blooms with a fruity scent.
• ‘Cherry Parfait’: White flowers with a red edge, resembling a cherry dessert.

Climbing roses

Climbing roses have long, arching canes that can be trained onto trellises, fences, arches, pergolas, or building walls. These varieties are perfect for vertical accents in gardens.

Popular climbing rose cultivars to grow:

• ‘Eden’: Soft pink flowers
• ‘New Dawn’: Soft pink flowers that repeat bloom.
• ‘Climbing Iceberg’: Climbing version of the popular ‘Iceberg’ with white blooms.

Miniature roses

Miniature roses are diminutive versions of larger roses. These varieties have small flowers, leaves, and stems. Some plants are less than a foot tall! They work well for the front of border gardens or for planting in containers as potted roses.

Popular miniature rose cultivars to grow:

• ‘Rise ‘N’ Shine’: Bright yellow, sunny blooms.
• ‘Child’s Play’: Pink and white bicolor flowers.
• ‘Sweet Chariot’: Purple flowers with a strong fragrance.

Groundcover roses

Groundcover roses are low-growing and sprawling varieties. As the name suggests, they are often used to cover ground areas and gentle slopes effectively. Newer ground cover roses are easy to prune and deadhead, and also naturally disease resistant. Some varieties bloom continuously from mid-spring through until frost.

Popular groundcover rose cultivars to grow:

• Any Drift cultivar
• ‘Flower Carpet’: Comes in various colors like pink, amber, and red.
• ‘Happy Chappy’: Rosy-pink flowers with a pleasant fragrance.

Rose trees

Rose trees, or standard roses, are roses of another type (usually hybrid tea, floribunda, or miniature) that have been grafted onto a tall stem. These plants make wonderful focal points in formal landscapes and can also make wonderful container plants on a patio.

Popular tree rose cultivars to grow:

• ‘Topolina’: Red flowers on a tall stem.
• ‘Pink Minimo’: Pink flowers in a tree form.
• ‘White Pet’: White blooms on a tall stem.

Rugosa roses

Rugosa roses are very hardy shrub roses with wrinkled (rugose) leaves. They produce large rose hips, making them attractive to both birds and humans even after blooming ends. They also tend to have lots of sharp thorns, making them excellent hedge or barrier shrubs.

Here are some named cultivars of Rugusa rose to grow:

• ‘Hansa’: Vibrant double magenta flowers with a clove-like fragrance.
• ‘Blanc Double de Coubert’: Double white flowers.
• ‘Roseraie de l’Haÿ’: Rich mauve-pink flowers with a strong fragrance.

Old garden roses

Old garden roses, or antique rose varieties, are varieties that existed before the introduction of the first hybrid tea rose in 1867. There are different classes of old garden roses, including classes like albas, bourbons, and damasks. Old-fashioned roses can be tricky to find and to grow, but they bring vintage charm and timeless fragrance to the garden.

Here are some lovely old garden rose cultivars to grow:

• ‘Alchymist’: Apricot-yellow blooms turning to pink.
• ‘Souvenir de la Malmaison’: Soft pink with a strong bourbon scent.
• ‘Madame Hardy’: White damask rose with a strong fragrance.

Wild roses

Wild roses, or species roses, are naturally occurring varieties of roses. They often have simple, five-petaled flowers and produce vibrant hips in the fall. There are currently 268 accepted species within the genus Rosa. These plants are perfect for natural areas, woodland borders, or native plant gardens.

Here are some wild rose species to grow:

• Rosa woodsii: Native North American rose with pink flowers.
• Rosa moyesii: Red flowers followed by bottle-shaped hips.
• Rosa canina: Light pink flowers with elongated hips.

Each type of rose offers its own charm and characteristics, making roses a versatile choice for gardens ranging from formal to cottage-style. Consider the specific needs and growth habits of the chosen rose type when learning how to grow roses and incorporate them into your garden.

How to propagate roses

Propagating roses allows you to produce new plants from existing ones. There are several methods to propagate roses, but some of the most common are through cuttings, budding, layering, and seeds. Here’s a brief overview of each method.

1. Cuttings

Cuttings are the most common method of propagating roses. A piece of a rose stem, called a cutting, is snipped off the plant and encouraged to grow its own roots.

• Softwood cuttings: Taken in late spring to early summer from the current season’s growth that has not yet become woody. They root quickly but may require a more controlled environment.
• Hardwood cuttings: Taken during dormancy in late fall to winter. They are more robust than softwood cuttings but may take longer to root.

Steps for taking cuttings:

1. Choose a healthy stem that has flowered recently. Cut a section 6-9 inches long.
2. Remove the leaves from the lower two-thirds of the cutting, keeping 2-3 sets of leaves on the top.
3. Dip the bottom end of the cutting in rooting hormone to promote root development.
4. Plant the cutting in a pot filled with a mix of perlite and peat moss or a similar well-draining medium.
5. Water well and cover the pot with a plastic bag or a plastic dome to maintain high humidity.
6. Place the pot in a location with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil consistently moist.
7. The cutting will develop roots in several weeks to a few months. Once established, transplant to a larger pot or the garden.

2. Budding

Budding is a type of grafting. A bud from the desired rose is grafted onto a rootstock of another rose.

Steps for budding:

1. Make a T-shaped cut on the rootstock and peel back the flaps to expose the inner tissue.
2. Remove a healthy bud from the donor plant, ensuring a small piece of stem tissue (the shield) remains.
3. Insert this bud shield into the T-cut of the rootstock.
4. Secure the bud in place using budding tape or rubber bands.
5. Once the bud has united with the rootstock (in a few weeks), cut off the rootstock above the bud.

3. Layering

Layering is when a gardener convinces a section of a plant stem/branch to form roots while still attached to the parent plant. Once that section develops sufficient roots, it’s severed from the parent plant and established as an independent plant.

• Simple layering: Bend a low-growing stem to the ground. Cover a section with soil, leaving the end tip exposed. Roots will develop at the buried section.
• Air layering: Make a small upward cut on the stem about halfway through. Apply rooting hormone, surround the cut with damp sphagnum moss, and wrap it in plastic. When roots develop in the moss, cut below the rooted section and plant.

You can purchase fancy pins for simple layering and fancy orbs for air layering, but these items aren’t necessary for successful rose propagation. They just might make it easier (especially for new gardeners).

4. Seeds

While not the most common method for propagating cultivated roses (due to variability), wild roses and some species roses can be propagated by seed.

Steps for seed propagation:

1. Harvest ripe hips (the fruit of the rose) and extract seeds.
2. Stratify the seeds by placing them in damp peat moss inside a plastic bag and refrigerate for 6-8 weeks.
3. Plant the cold-stratified seeds in pots. Keep them in a bright location.
4. Transplant seedlings once they’ve grown large enough to handle.

Each method of propagation has its advantages and challenges. The method chosen often depends on the type of rose, the gardener’s experience, and the resources available.