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Looking for a flavorful mini Roma tomato? The Juliet Tomato should be on your must-try list!
The Juliet Tomato is a small red plum tomato variety known for being both delicious and easy to grow. These AAS award-winning grape tomatoes are very much like mini Roma Tomatoes – full of flavor and perfect to enjoy either fresh or in a cooked recipe. The high-yielding hybrid plants put on clusters of 1-2 dozen tomatoes at a time on their long, indeterminate vines. Juliet Tomatoes ripen early in tomato season, with the first tomatoes typically ready for harvest about 60 days after the seedling was transplanted outdoors.
Read on to learn all about the popular Juliet Tomato!
Juliet Tomatoes are a very popular red grape tomato variety. These small, oblong tomatoes are mini plum tomatoes and share many characteristics with the famous larger Roma Tomato. Juliet tomatoes have a glossy red skin and are extremely crack resistant on the vine. The plants are also perfect for beginners as they are naturally resistant to many common tomato diseases.
Juliet Tomato is a hybrid variety, not an open-pollinated heirloom. Introduced in the 1990s, this hybrid cultivar was bred using natural techniques by Known-You Seed. Juliet Tomato went on to win the All-America Selections Award in 1999 for best vegetable variety.
Juliet is an indeterminate tomato variety. This means the vigorous vines grow longer and longer throughout the growing season, producing more clusters of tomatoes as they grow. This leads to a long harvest season. The vines commonly grow to 6′-10′ long and must be supported by some sort of trellis. The best option is a proper tomato cage, but these plants can also be supported with a tomato stake.
Juliet Tomatoes ripen early in tomato season, with the first tomatoes ripening about 60 days after the seedlings are transplanted into the outdoor garden. Harvest season for Juliet plants generally lasts about 12 weeks, with well-supported plants sometimes producing hundreds of tomatoes each!
“Juliet: This may be the most popular variety of grape tomatoes. It is an indeterminate hybrid variety with a very sweet flavor that has won several tasting contests.”The Complete Guide to Growing Tomatoes: Everything You Need to Know Explained Simply, by Cherie Everhart
Juliet Tomatoes have quite a sweet garden tomato taste. The flavor is not overly rich or complex but is certainly among the higher-quality of available red hybrid grape tomatoes.
Juliet Tomatoes typically weigh about 1-2 ounces each (28-57 g). There are usually about a dozen Juliet Tomatoes in a pound. Each tomato is about 2 inches (5 cm) long. A cluster of these grape tomatoes usually contains 12-20 individual tomatoes.
Juliet Tomatoes are easy to grow from seed. That said, it does require quite a bit of space and gear, so many gardeners opt to purchase Juliet seedling plants from the garden center or grocery stores. If you’re starting with seedlings, skip to the next section.
Seeds are usually planted indoors 6-8 weeks before the local last frost date in your area. You can find your local date with this Frost Date Calculator. This timing generally translates to seeds being sown indoors in February-April, depending on the climate.
Fill the seedling tray up with potting soil so the mix goes into all the cells. Then water the whole tray to help the potting mix settle. Add a little more soil if necessary. The seed starting soil mix should be about a half inch from the top of each cell.
Using a seed dibber or your fingertip, carefully sow the seeds about a ¼ inch deep in the seed starting mix. Most gardeners put 2-3 seeds in each cell, but if you don’t have many seeds, just place one per cell. Once the seeds are in the soil, brush a little bit of potting mix over them. Give the seedling tray one more gentle watering and allow all the excess water to drain out of the seedling tray. Pour out any water that has been collected in the bottom pan tray.
Place the seedling tray on a flat stable indoor surface on top of the seedling heating mat. Tomato seeds germinate best at soil temperatures in the range of 75°-90°F (24°-32°C). In this soil temperature range, the seeds should germinate in about 6 days (source: University of California).
The seedlings will also need supplemental light to thrive when grown indoors. Position a plant light over the seedling tray. If possible, add a pulley system to raise the LED lights so you can keep them about 4″ above the seedlings as they grow (or whatever distance your specific lighting system recommends). Most gardeners leave the plant lights on for 16 hours during the day and then turn them off for 8 hours overnight. Most plant lights have an automated timer built-in.
Water the seedling tray regularly using a very gentle watering can or even a spray bottle full of clean water. Once the seedlings have emerged and are an inch or two tall, you can start bottom watering the seedlings by filling up the bottom pan tray with a bit of water and allowing it to passively wick up through the potting mix to reach the roots of the seedling plants.
Choose the strongest seedling in each cell and remove the others. If you seeded 2-3 seeds per cell, most cells will have 2 seedlings in them. Wait until the seedlings have their first pair of serrated “true” leaves prior to deciding which one is the strongest. Look for the seedling with the thickest, straightest stem. This is the one to keep. Using clean floral snips, trim the other (weaker) seedling off at its base, as close to the soil line as possible. Take care not to damage the seedling you’re keeping.
Once the seedlings become about 3x taller than the seedling tray and have about 3 pairs of proper serrated “true” leaves, it’s time to think about transplanting them into larger containers. You can use a seedling tray with larger cells or plant each seedling into its own individual 4″ wide pot. Most tomato seedlings have to be up-potted at least once prior to going outdoors as it’s still too cold in most climates for the tomato plants to go outside.
Juliet Tomato plant seedlings can be planted outdoors in the ground or they can be grown in raised garden beds or large container planter pots. If planting in a container, use a 10-gallon container at minimum. Large grow bags or half whiskey barrels are excellent. The best natural soil for these plants is a sandy loam that drains out excess water easily. In containers, use a lightweight mix with a base of coco coir and/or peat moss plus some perlite to add air into the soil matrix.
Juliet Tomato plants require a full sun planting location with plenty of space. This means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight should hit the leaves of the plant each day. This will help stop the leaves from turning yellow. You’ll also need room for a heavy-duty tomato cage and close access to a water source or automated drip irrigation.
Tomato plants are generally kept indoors until nighttime temperature lows are above 50°F (10°C) to remain disease resistant and proper growth. These tender plants can be permanently damaged at temperatures below 43°F (6°C). Resist the urge to plant them outdoors too early in cool soil, as it can stunt the plants and inhibit the growth of the roots. The result of this is often plants that grow slowly, do not yield well, and are susceptible to common tomato diseases and conditions like Blossom End Rot due to their underdeveloped roots.
Tomato seedlings are “hardened off” in the spring to reduce transplant shock. This is done by slowly exposing them to outdoor conditions over a period of about a week. Once temperatures are above 50°F (10°C), start taking the seedlings outdoors for a few hours a day. Place the seedlings in a sheltered area protected from wind and direct sunlight and be sure to bring them in at night. As the week progresses, leave them outdoors for longer periods each day and start to introduce them to direct sunlight and a bit of wind.
Prepare the garden bed prior to planting the seedlings. Start by removing any dead plant debris from previous seasons. Next, work a slow-release granular fertilizer into the top 6″ of the soil. Then rake the surface flat with a handheld cultivator. Lastly, water the entire bed thoroughly and deeply to saturate the soil.
Remove the bottom leaves off the seedlings. Tomatoes are one of the specific plants that do best when planted deeper than their original soil line. Depending upon the height of the seedling, remove 1-3 pairs of leaves from the bottom of the plant. Be sure to leave a cluster of leaves at the top (do not remove all the leaves).
Dig a planting hole. The planting hole should be deeper than the seedling’s planter such that some of the exposed stems will be buried. Try to make the planting hole deep enough to bury about half of the total length of the stem while positioning the remaining leaves far enough above the soil line that they don’t contact the soil.
Place the seedling plant in the hole. If there are quite a few visible roots on the root ball and it appears root-bound, gently loosen the root ball up with your hands to free the roots. Once the plant is in the hole, the leaves should be at least an inch or two above the soil to minimize soil moisture affecting the foliage in the first few weeks.
Backfill the planting hole. Use the soil that was dug out of the hole to fill in the sides between the root ball and the hole and up along the portion of the stem that will be belowground. Gently tamp the soil down with your hands. Take a moment to place a label beside the seedling so you know which variety it is throughout the growing season.
If planting multiple tomato plants, space them 24″-48″ (60-120cm) apart. These plants are quite large and need several square feet of garden area. Also, make sure to account for the size of the specific tomato cage you’ll be using.
Water the seedlings after planting. Give the seedlings a thorough drink after they have been planted. If your garden beds have drip irrigation, move the line so it is close to but not touching the base of the stem.
Spread a thin organic mulch over the soil surface. An excellent mulch for tomatoes is a ~1″ thick layer of homemade or store-bought compost. Rake it over the soil surface to provide a slow-release source of nutrients that will also buffer soil temperatures and moisture levels as well as reduce the amount of precipitation that may splash off the ground and up onto the foliage.
The best time to install tomato cages is as soon as the seedlings are planted. The cages will look quite large (and a bit ridiculous) around the small plants, but the vines will soon wind around the cage and reach the top.
After planting your seedlings, take a moment to mark your calendar for the expected date of the first harvest. Juliet Tomatoes typically take an estimated 70 days after seedlings are planted outdoors before the first tomatoes ripen on the vine.
Juliet Tomato plants start as tiny seedlings but quickly grow to fill in a surface area of 24″-36″ wide and 48″-60″ tall (or more if the tomato cage is taller). The tomatoes may be small but the plants can get huge! For best results, here are some growing tips:
Juliet Tomato plants should be watered frequently and consistently so they can produce large yields and to help the plant grow properly. The easiest way to water them is with automated drip irrigation, but you can water them using any method that waters the soil around the base of the plant. Avoid getting water on the foliage of the new plants.
Plants may only need watering once or twice a week in the spring or during rainy weather, but the plants will likely require watering every other day or even daily in very hot weather (especially if planted in a small container). The best time to water is early in the morning so that any moisture that gets on the new plants has the opportunity to dry quickly during the heat of the day.
Although Juliet is a particularly crack-resistant variety, irregular watering once the plant begins to produce fruit has set can lead to cracking of the developing tomato peels. Provide the new plants with an even supply of moisture. Avoid sudden influxes of water such as heavy watering after missing watering for a few days, as this sudden burst of water can cause the tomatoes to swell and the peels to crack. While Juliet tomatoes are crack-resistant, they’re not completely crack-proof. Try to water consistently.
Weed garden beds on a regular basis, typically once or twice per week to help your plant grow. When weed seedlings are small, they are easy to rake out with a handheld cultivator or pluck out and toss in the compost heap. If allowed to grow larger, they become more difficult and disruptive to the tomato plants to pull out. If left for quite a while they may even go to seed and lead to a whole new generation of weeds in the garden.
Larger tomato plants like Juliet grown inside large, heavy-duty tomato cages typically do not need much pruning at all. If, however, your plants are growing up a tomato stake, they will likely require pruning of the suckers to keep the plants under control and prevent them from toppling over. When growing up a stake, one vine should be designated as the main stem and tied very gently to the stake at 1′ increments.
One area that is generally pruned on most tomato plants is the bottom of the stem. Once the plant has been in the ground for a month or two, the bottom leaves can become yellowed. Trim off the leaves from the base of the plant up to about 8″-10″ from the soil level. Keeping the base area relatively clear can help with air circulation and make the foliage less susceptible to foliar disease.
Tomato plants are typically fed throughout the growing season with either a slow-release granular tomato fertilizer or a water-soluble tomato fertilizer. The granular fertilizers typically last for a month or two while liquid formulations last only a couple of weeks. Be sure to follow the application instructions and frequency guidelines listed on the fertilizer of your choice. Here are some options for both types of tomato fertilizer:
Additionally, avoid using fertilizers with high amounts of nitrogen like lawn fertilizer, evergreen fertilizer, and even some all-purpose fertilizer mixes. High amounts of nitrogen can lead to large tomato plants with lots of foliage but very few tomatoes. It can also occasionally exacerbate rot.
As tomatoes ripen on the vine they become targets for pests and wildlife. This includes everything from slugs, snails, and ants to birds, rabbits, and even deer.
Slug and insect protection usually consists of either crushed eggshells or horticultural diatomaceous earth on the soil around the base of the plant, or beer traps if slugs are particularly bad. For flying insects, a protective row cover fabric works well. Row cover is easy to set up with garden bed hoops and insect netting fabric. If you see any tomato hornworms, remove them from the garden and destroy them.
If larger wildlife is a problem, there are more options. Both protective bird netting and deer fencing are easy to find in garden centers. You can also try to lure birds away from the garden by placing a bird feeder and birdbath away from the garden or even try your hand at making your own scarecrow.
Juliet Tomatoes are best left on the vine to ripen. It typically takes about 60 days after the seedling was planted outdoors for the first tomatoes to ripen. Expect to wait anywhere from 55-70 days after planting the seedling before the first tomatoes are ready to pick. It may take longer if the seedling was planted out too early in the spring or if midsummer weather was extremely hot.
Juliet Tomatoes are ripe when they have a rich glossy red peel color and have just barely started to soften up. The tomatoes should still be quite firm but will have a bit of “give” when gently squeezed. Pick them in the morning and enjoy them as soon as possible!
There are usually about 1-2 dozen tomatoes in a cluster. You can harvest the entire cluster by snipping it off at the base of the vine. Then use the ripe ones first and allow the remaining tomatoes to ripen on the kitchen counter. If you need quite a few ripe tomatoes all at once, the tomatoes can also be individually snipped off the top of multiple clusters to get a full harvest of grape tomatoes all at once.
Juliet Tomatoes are indeterminate and will continue to set tomatoes through early fall until frost. Keep an eye on the weather forecast, as frost or freezing temperatures will kill the plant. If frost is forecasted, harvest all the green tomatoes on the plant. These green tomatoes will ripen indoors off the vine.
Juliet Tomatoes can be stored for up to a month or two in a cool dry storage area. Choose only whole, undamaged tomatoes for storage. Any less-than-perfect tomatoes can be stored on the kitchen counter at room temperature out of direct sunlight for 2-3 days until ready for fresh use or processing into a cooked sauce or another recipe.
The most important part of tomato storage is to find a location that is not too cold but not too hot. Tomatoes store best between 55°-60°F (12°-16°C). Sometimes you can find a good spot in a basement or garage that naturally stays in this temperature range. Resist the urge to store the tomatoes in the fridge as the cold temperatures cause the flavor to deteriorate rapidly and the texture to become very mushy.
Storage tomatoes are generally wrapped in newspaper or placed in paper bags to ripen. The paper keeps the tomatoes from contacting each other, as this can cause early rot. It also helps to trap some ethylene gas that comes off the tomatoes naturally and keeps it nearby to encourage further ripening. Check the ripening tomatoes regularly and remove any that have signs of rot or mold.
Juliet Tomatoes and other attractive ripening fruits in the garden can be very attractive to garden pests such as insects and larger wildlife. The protective netting covers described earlier in this article will deter most pests that affect home plant tomato growers, but occasionally pests will sneak in to attack your tomato plants.
Aphids are a common garden pest that feeds on the plants as they suck the liquid out. These tiny colorful bugs cluster on stems and under leaves. They also drop sticky “honeydew” residue that attracts ants. The ants may even start farming the aphids for their honeydew. If you notice aphids, you can start by ordering some ladybugs and releasing them into the garden to act as natural predators. They can also be surprisingly easy to spray off the plants with a sharp stream of water.
If there are quite a few aphids, consider using an organic insecticide such as Insecticidal Soap, Neem Oil Spray, or a specialty product like Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew to eradicate the pests. Most organic sprays can be reapplied on a regular basis to ensure the eradication of pests.
Parasitic Nematodes are another common garden pest for tomatoes, especially in warm climates. These microscopic worms live in the soil and damage the roots, leading to wilted or stunted plants. Start by avoiding planting tomatoes at all in infected soil. Use grow bags or large containers filled with fresh potting mix. You can also plant ‘Nema-Gone’ Marigolds around the tomatoes as they have been proven to kill nematodes in the soil. Also, try planting a green manure cover crop during the off-season, and be sure to rotate garden beds each year.
While tomato plants are quite prone to disease, Juliet has been bred to be naturally disease resistant to many common garden diseases like fusarium wilt, verticillium wilt, tobacco mosaic virus, and root-knot nematode. That said, no tomato plant is disease-proof. But fortunately, there are a variety of good organic gardening practices that naturally reduce the prevalence of diseases.
Wilt diseases are fungal or bacterial diseases that cause the tomato plant to wilt with little warning. This is caused by harmful soil-borne bacteria or fungi that attack the roots. Fusarium wilt and Verticillium wilt are of particular concern. Rotate plants, give plants lots of space, apply copper fungicide, and remove/destroy infected plant debris immediately.
Anthracnose is a fungal disease that causes small depressions on ripening tomatoes which get larger and turn black, causing the fruit to be covered with rotten black spots. This fungus is most prevalent when summer weather has been hot and humid, or when the plants have been watered from above rather than at the soil base. To decrease the growth of this fungus, rotate crops annually, give tomato plants lots of space for good air circulation, prune off the bottom leaves, add mulch on the soil surface to reduce the splashing of water onto the leaves, and remove and discard any dead plant material from the garden as soon as it appears. Natural copper fungicide can also be applied as a preventative measure.
Early Blight is a fungal disease that causes brown rings on the leaves of the tomato plant, especially near the base. The leaves eventually turn brown and often drop off the plant. This disease causes the tomato growth to become stunted and the tomatoes won’t grow to their expected size. The tomatoes may even get dark spots and may rot on the plant. This is especially common in cool, wet weather. Avoid watering the plants overhead, give each plant lots of space, and trim any diseased leaves off immediately.
Septoria Leaf Spot is a fungal disease that causes black spots on the leaves of the tomato plant. As with other fungal diseases, it thrives in cool, wet weather and in gardens without adequate air circulation. It generally appears on the bottom leaves first. Treatment is the same as with other fungal diseases. Remove the infected leaves from the area, give plants lots of space, apply copper fungicide before planting, and rotate the plants each year.
Blossom End Rot is a condition where the bottom of each tomato turns brown/black and the fruit rots before it ripens. This rot is caused when the plant cannot absorb enough calcium. Once a fruit shows signs of the rot, it won’t recover and must be discarded. To prevent end rot on future tomatoes, start by applying a liquid tomato fertilizer rich in calcium (see above for recommendations) or some garden lime. The end rot may also be caused by damaged roots or stress on the plant, even if there is enough calcium in the soil. Be sure to water and fertilize plants regularly throughout the season.
Juliet Tomatoes are not heirloom tomatoes because they are grown from hybrid seed, not from open-pollinated seed. Additionally, they were developed after 1950, and therefore are also not old enough to be considered heirlooms. Juliet is a modern hybrid variety that many gardeners find easier to grow, more reliable, more productive, and with less blemished fruit than the traditional heirloom varieties.
Juliet plants can get quite tall – about 4-6 feet inside a large tomato cage – over the growing season. These indeterminate plants can continue to grow taller and can reach 8-10 feet tall if well-supported and growing conditions are good. Be sure to use a tomato cage or a tomato stake to support your plant.
Juliet and similar grape tomatoes are delicious raw or cooked. While they are plum tomatoes, Juliet Tomatoes aren’t overly meaty or acidic and are just as delicious when fresh as they are roasted, baked, or stewed. Their small size also makes them easy to prep and throw into a fresh salad or summer pasta dish. They can also be canned, frozen, or dried for future use.
Here are some cooked recipes that are well-suited to Juliet Tomatoes:
Here are some similar varieties to the Juliet Tomato: